My kind of hike
Wednesday, April 28, 2010 at 05:36PM A vacation is like love – anticipated with pleasure, experienced with discomfort, and remembered with nostalgia.
I think I may have found the hike designed just for me:
- Out of shape people are more likely to be successful on this hike than athletes.*
- Excessive flatulence is a good thing.
- Technical skills needed: putting one foot in front of the next.
- Douglas Adams once did this hike wearing a rubber rhino suit.
Believe it or not, this is what my research about climbing Kilimanjaro in Tanzania is showing.
Ever since hearing tales of my fellow Saudi-ARAMCO teachers doing this climb in the mid-80s, I have had it on my bucket list. And as soon as I found out that I would be speaking at the AISA conference in Nairobi this fall, I started doing some idle research about hiking Kili. I knew the altitude was the main reason most people don't summit and I was a little worried since the Inca Trail in 2006 left me literally breathless at only 14,000 feet. Kilimanjaro is over 19,000 feet. And I am not getting any younger - as the expression goes.
But fate placed a lovely newspaper article in front of me in February and that article put me in touch with a travel agency that specializes in hiking Kilimanjaro - located about 30 mile from my home. Karen and Innocent assured me over lunch a couple weeks ago that they had successfully guided an 80 year old man to the top. The hike will be 8 days and 7 nights, following the Shira Platea/Western Breach (also called the Lemosho route) - the least traveled, most remote, and reportedly the most beautiful of the multiple ascents to the summit.
Obviously, the universe wants me to do this hike.
I decided some time ago that the world is a more interesting place when one is not looking at it through the windows of a tour bus or from the lobby of a five star hotel. I guess all life is more interesting when you get right out in it. But you might want to ask me again after this adventure.
Any advice from other hikers of Kilimanjaro? (I'd prefer not hearing horror stories, thank you.)
Oh, and I am heading to Brazil in the spring of 2011. An hikes not to be missed in that region?
* People who are in very good shape tend to rush up the mountain, not giving their bodies time to acclimate to the higher altitudes. Slower people actually get there in better health. Gas is a sign your body is adjusting to lower oxygen levels (at least according to one source). This is a walk, not a real climb, hence no technical climbing skills are needed. And yes, Douglas Adams really did climb the mountain wearing a rhino suit for the Save the Rhino charity in 1994.
AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) is the biggest health hazard of climbing and no one takes it lightly according to my readings. It is not the lack of oxygen in the air, it is the lack of air pressure that causes problems. But human bodies adjust if given sufficient time for the blood to thicken. Or so they say.
Reader Comments (12)
Sounds like the eight day journey will be as much fun as reaching the top. I have had several acquaintances do the hike and their faces reveal their nostalgia when they recount their experiences.
Sounds great. My wife is very interested in this. Can't wait to hear how it goes for you.
As a fellow Minnesotan and former Montanan, I have experienced the ruthlessness of altitude many times. It took me but one year to lose my mountain lungs, even as a vigorous teenager, after moving here with my family.
When I returned to the ski resorts I loved one spring break, I was brought to my knees, gasping. Of course, that was mostly the result of youthful enthusiasm and disregard for reality. I was reminded again another year later when I worked at a guest ranch in the Paradise Valley for a summer and went out for a day hike.
If you have opportunity to train, even a little, for high altitude, I suggest you take it. Your plan for moving slowly is sound, but it can't hurt to be better acclimated in advance.
Best of luck. I'm green with envy!
Friends of mine did this. They were in very good shape, (runners and swimmers, two under 25) .They all got extremely ill and only one made it to the top and he almost didn't make it back. They have absolute horror stories. I will spare you the detials as you don't want to hear them, but it was a terrible few weeks and also very expensive. If you had trouble at a lower altitude you are crazy to try this. Of course the travel agency says you can do this--they want your money. If you really are going to do this, you had better start training now.
I look forward to meeting you at the conference in Nairobi next fall. I work for IST (one of the schools in AISA) and we send 20 HS students up with 4 teachers every year. They do a lot of training for it, and they go along the Marangu route (the easiest so I hear). The more training you do, the easier it is, though altitude is the equalizer as it affects everyone differently. Some of our most fit kids don't make it because they get altitude sickness, and the ones with the worst asthma summit. Acclimatization is the most important way to fight this, and the only way to achieve it is through giving yourself enough time. However, that said, training for a climb is important if you want to be able to enjoy it properly. Some reputable companies that we use here are Wild Things Safaris, Safarimakers, and/or Marangu Hotel. Good luck and Karibu Tanzania!
Someone in my hiking group hiked Kilimanjaro years ago and another friend hiked to Mt. Everest basecamp this year. I don't remember the specifics of either hike but I do remember that they both said it was a wonderful experience and thoroughly enjoyed it. I'm sure you will have a great time and can't wait to read your write up about it!
Hi Doug
What fun ! I can't wait to read about your hike to the top. As a young person, Hemingway was my very favorite author. I have always been fascinated with Mt. Kilimanjaro. I even remember the Gregory Peck movie!
I'm so excited for you!
sandra
You never cease to amaze me.
My daughter's boyfriend made the hike. Of course, we're from Colorado, so altitude isn't an issue. But to get an idea of the terrain beforehand, we searched for YouTube videos. It looks like more of a hill than a mountain. Here's a blog post with videos, but there are lots more at YouTube that show it to be fairly non-challenging. Plus, who says you have to finish--just visiting could be worthwhile. http://climbmtkili.blogspot.com/2006/11/youtube-videos.html
Hi Paul,
Yes, I think all the fun will be in the attempt. I have nothing to prove (even to myself) by summitting. If I do, I do. If I don't, I am sure I will still have a good time and good stories.
Doug
Hi Ninja,
If I survive, Blue Skunk readers will be the first to know!
Doug
Hi Clint,
Not sure where exactly to train for high altitudes here in southern MN - Mt Kato?
I'll do my usual walking each noon hour and add hills and a backpack a couple months in advance.
Hey, come along on the trek!
Doug
Hi MLV,
The advice for training is good. Thanks. I do read (in non-travel agent related places) that good companies have a 90+% success rate. Maybe your young Turks went too hard and fast. That seems to be a problem.
Thanks for the note,
Doug
Hi JoeB,
Great info. Thanks. I look forward to meeting you as well. Chance are good since the hike is AFTER the conference!
Doug
Thanks, Pat. Nice to hear positive words!
Doug
Hi Sandra,
The Gregory Peck movie is on my list of movies to watch! Thanks for the comment,
Doug
Hi Mary,
Yes, I am a legend in my own mind.
Doug
Hi Jude,
Good idea looking at YouTube videos. Yes, the only technical skill needed to summit is the ability to walk!
Doug
Hi Doug,
You are going to love climbing Kili. I lived in TZ for 3 years, teaching at IST in Dar and 'doing Kili' was just something on most people's to do lists while living there.
You are absolutely correct - the slower the better. Your guides will be constantly saying 'pole pole' which means 'slowly, slowly'. The changing landscape, views and people on the walk are amazing. The summit night was very challenging but the elation of arriving at the highest point in Africa was unreal.
Training is good, but to be honest (and my friend and I don't admit it to many people) we did bugger all training and made it. You will know how you are doing with the altitude from early stages of the climb...and get some good medication for nausea/altitude sickness etc.
Anyway....good luck. Can't wait to read about it on Blue Skunk. I really enjoy reading your blog.
Lots of food for thought...
Tracey Dunlop
Hi Tracey,
Thanks for the encouragement. I've been maintaining my daily walking routine, but will slap on hiking boots and a light pack starting next month. My biggest effort is trying to lose a few "age 50+" pounds before the hike. Been doing a lot of reading and planning. I think the anticipation is the best!
Thanks for the kind words about the blog,
Doug