Warsaw impressions

The guide pointed out these now sealed holes in Lubomirski's bathing pavilion, a lovely 17th century building in Warsaw's Lazienki Park, during the first stop of the tour and asked why they were there. Flag poles? Something from an earlier structure? No. They were holes for dynamite charges placed by Nazi's at the end of WWII meant to completely destroy the building. While they didn't get the chance to set these charges, the Germans did destroy 85% of the buildings in this city and kill over 50% of its civilian population.

Building in Wilanow Palace gardens

You wouldn't know that 60 years ago, there was little left of this old city sitting on the banks of the Vistula. The buildings, streets and people are back, rebuilt in the original style. Business is robust and shopping is national pastime despite it being only 20 years since the Poland was under the thumb of the Soviets. But past history seems very, very close here.

Those who've read any Polish history (I re-read Michner's excellent Poland just before coming here) know that this country has been the battle ground for a millennium. The Tatars, Swedes, Prussians, Austrians and Russians have all battled, destroyed and annexed this crossroads at one time or another. A weak central government delayed modernization for centuries. For over 100 years, the country of Poland did not exist politically. Yet, as Michner writes, "every Pole is born with a brick in their left hand and a sword in their right hand." Poles rebuild.

Were it not gray November, this would be a city as lovely and vibrant as any in Europe. But as one of the librarians with whom I am working here put it, Warsaw has three kinds of days - gray, grayer and grayest. The sun goes down at 3:30PM. It's rained four of the five days I've been here. And the ever present reminder of the Nazi occupation during WWII and Soviet oppression is reflected in every museum and monument.

Chopin sculpture, recreated from a small model, after the original was destroyed. Site of concerts in the summer with the benches surrounded by red roses.

As long ago as the 16th century, Warsaw's emblems have included a mermaid.

 The Warsaw Mermaid sculpture in Old Town

The legend says that two mermaid sisters in the Aegean were tired of the hot weather and decided to find a better place to live. They swam out through the Straits of Gibraltar. Iberia was far too hot. They continued north where one sister found the Danish peninsula to her liking (becoming the inspiration for Hans Christian Anderson's Little Mermaid), but the other continued through the Baltic Sea to the mouth of the Vistula and kept swimming to Warsaw. She was promptly captured by a fisherman then rescued by a farm boy. In gratitude, she pledged to protect the city. Personally, I am not sure she gets real high marks for her efforts.

The infamous Jewish Ghetto, where 25 people were crammed in 600 sq ft apartments and given a diet of 300 calories a day, no longer exists. But this monument (and others) stand in memory of the suffering and the uprising that speaks to the honor of going down fighting. Unlike Berlin and Washington DC, Warsaw does not have Holocaust Museum. Yet.

Moat surrounding Old Town.

Perhaps because I am rather a scary looking soul in my damp overcoat and gray stocking cap, I received no smiles or nods as I passed people on the street. Seasonal Affective Disorder must set in early here. That and the fact I've learned no Polish - even a few words.

The one bright spot I've enjoyed is the American School of Warsaw. Like so many international schools, it is small with a devoted staff, a diverse student population, an outstanding facility, and a strong educational program. In the school, smiles are returned.

I'd like to come back to Warsaw in the spring or summer. I am sure it would rival any European capital in charm and beauty. But in present memory, it is and will remain a gray place.

Comments

[Mary J. Johnson]

Doug -

I highly recommend anything by Norman Davies if you're interested in learning more about Poland. He's an expert in Eastern Europe, and his writing is fascinating. For starters, you might try No Simple Victory, in which Davies seeks to correct the Western-centric view of World War II. For example, he believes that Stalin has been given a free pass by Western writers because he was an ally of Western nations. Another book to consider is Davies' God's Playground, used as a textbook for Polish school children.

-Mary

[Paul C]

Despite the 'gray, grayer, grayest' days, you capture well the exhileration of travelling in the off season as well. Wet cobblestone with the last amber and bronze leaves, a hovering mist....

[Annie Kadala]

I spent the last semester of my MLS program studying abroad in the Czech Republic. One of the best friends I made there is a Polish Library Science student. We visited Krakow together and her home town, Oople, and I fell completely in love with the country. I also had the awesome opportunity of doing a school library internship at the International School of Prague which was a great experience. I totally agree with your assessment of international schools, they are wonderful places to be. I'm glad you post about your travels (library or not-library related), I know I truly benefitted by taking my library studies abroad particularly to countries like Poland and the Czech Republic where libraries and librarianship were affected so strongly by the communism. Particularly interesting was going to a Czech school library; a completely different animal than an American school library.

[Doug Johnson]

Thanks, Mary. I'll definitely check Davies out.

Doug

Hi Paul,

I DO like traveling off-season. I think a bit of this dreariness was because I had just been on the road a little too long... Had Poland been my first, rather than last stop of my speaking/consulting marathon, my views may have been a bit sunnier!

All the best,

Doug

Hi Annie,

Thanks for sharing your experiences...

In talking to the librarians in Warsaw, I learned that school library media specialists are in short supply in international schools. Perhaps you might continue your "studies abroad!"

All the best,

Doug

[David Brightbill]

I recommend the photographic work of my young friend Soliman Lawrence (http://www.solimanlawrence.com/unquietplaces1.html). His photos of Poland and the recent history of the Jewish community there is quite outstanding.

[Doug Johnson]

Hi David,

Thanks for sharing this site. Beautiful photography and interesting commentary.

My understanding is that there is a Jewish museum being built (or planned) in Warsaw. It is not a Holocaust Museum, but a tribute to the role Jews played throughout Polish history. At least that is what one of the Polish teachers at the school I visited reported.

All the best,

Doug

[Jim Randolph]

Thaks for sharing. Great pictures!

[Doug Johnson]

Thanks, Ninja. If you are REALLY bored, I have the collection at:

http://dougj.smugmug.com/Travel

Happy Thanksgiving!

Doug

[Lindsey Smith]

The Zookeeper's Wife is a great book about Warsaw during the war if you are interested!

[Doug Johnson]

Thanks, Lindsay. I will add this to my list.

Doug